Travel, Community, Charity: September 2017

GO IPOH

Photographs by Diana Yeoh

The tagline “Ipoh Mari” follows me wherever I go.

People used to ask me ‘Where are you, from?’I proudly replied ‘Ipoh’, followed with a jovial return on the other side ‘Oh! You Ipoh Mari..lah’.

Many do not know much about this quaint city except for the famous tagline attached to those who reside in Ipoh.

MURAL ART IN OLD TOWN IPOH

Some people may have visited Ipoh, will revisit Ipoh again probably they are amazed with the numerous beautifully maintained old buildings left behind by the Englishmen, Japanese and the locals, decades back.

It is my popular verse “although I am born and bred in Ipoh, I never get bored visiting the Old Town of Ipoh which is surrounded with colonial-classical styled building coupled with feelings of yesteryear when one walks through the backlane of the old shop houses”.

Being a localite, I am delighted to be an acting tour guide to friends from other states whenever they pay me a visit, here.

IPOH RAILWAY STATION

One of my buddy friends from college days, Wendy Chu, used to visit me once every year. She never missed a trip without asking me to take her around to take photographs of those majestic buildings prominently rested in the Old Town areas, while entertaining her with stories of each building as we go along the heritage trail.

HERITAGE TRAIL

The heritage walk highlights historical spots which covers the Ipoh Railway Station-War Memorial-Town Hall-High Court-St. Michael’s Institution-Indian Muslim Mosque-The Standard Chartered Bank-Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank-Residence & Law Office of Senivasagam Brothers-Royal Ipoh Club-Church of St John-Han Chin Pet Soo and the Concubine Lane. It runs from Jalan Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab via Jalan SP Seenivasagam- Jalan Sultan Yussuf- Jalan Dato Maharajalela- Jalan Panglima and ends at Jalan Bijeh Timah.

We start-off our beautiful morning at one of the mesmerising place the Ipoh Railway Station also known as the ‘Taj Mahal of Ipoh’ was built from 1914 to 1917 in the Neo Classical style designed by British architect A.B.Hubback.

Next to the railway station, one can find a War Memorial constructed to commemorate the state’s war dead bearing the words “Sacred to the memory of the men from state of Perak who fell in the Great War 1914-1918 and to those who died in the 1939-1945 war”. Come June, there will be an annual event organised by the State, in respect of the those who perished during the War.

We then walk across the road to have a look at the Town Hall, and down the road to cover the court buildings, Royal Ipoh Club, St Michael’s Institution and the Indian Muslim Mosque.

Sharing the beauty of the railway station are the Town Hall and Old Post Office which were constructed from 1914 - 1916, in the Neo Classical style, also designed by A.B. Hubback. In 1945, the Malay Nationalist Party, the first political party formed in Malaya, held its inaugural congress in the Town Hall building.

Similarly, the High Court built from 1926 to 1928, in Neo Classical style replaced the older court houses in service from 1888 to 1909.

The building was opened by the then British Resident in Perak, R.W, Thompson on 1928, and was used as a High Court by the Japanese during the Occupation.

One may not notice that next to courts area, stood the Royal Club of Ipoh which was founded by a group of Europeans in 1895, has the distinction of being the oldest club in Ipoh. During the Japanese Occupation, the Japanese Army used the building as a laundry house for officers based at St Michael’s Institution, another historical building, found nearby the vicinity of the railway station.

The St. Michael’s Institution (SMI) established in 1912, was founded by Father J.B. Copping and built in the Gothic style. This building, was used as the headquarters of the Japanesse Administration in Perak, during the Japanese Occupation.

Next to the Institution, is the Indian Muslim Mosque constructed by Indian workers in 1908, initiated by Shaik Adam, a wealthy Tamil Muslim, to serve the Hanafit sect of Indian Muslim community. The mosque was built in reflection of Moghul architecture comprised of verandahs on three-side with scalloped archaways inspired by the chitty architectual style of South India. A single pramidal roof caps the prayer hall and two minarets.

Another ‘awesome’ sight is none other than St John The Divine Church, consecrated in 1912, where the earliest service for this Anglican community were held at Ipoh Court House. This historical church is located further from the railway station vicinity which is also within walking distance of a 20-minute walk from there. Here, the congregation of the church grew, there was a need for a permanent building, where in 1910, the Bishop of Singapore Rt. Rev, Charles James Ferguson Davie laid the foundation for the church. Interestingly, the bricks used for the church were from the earliest klins in Perak and cement were used for the building with mortar for the walls. The mortar used was a combination of fine sand, slaked lime, coconut fibre, sugar and egg-white. Cengal Bt wood was used for the structural beams while Meranti wood was used for the wall and ceiling. The roof has Marseille tiles. During the Japanese Occupation, the Japanese considered the church as “enemy property” and was used as a store house and was later converted into a noodle factory. At that time, the community had to attend services at Church of the Holy Spirit in Buntong.

After completing the St John’s church, we adjourn to the other side of old town where tourist will stop for a photography session. It is the popular Birch Memorial Clock Tower built in 1909, erected in memory of J.W,W, Birch, the first British Resident of Perak who as assassinated in 1875. The panels portray 44 famous figures in world history. Terracotta figures representing the Virtues of British Administration- a symbol of Loyalty, Patience, Justice and Fortitude guarding the corners of the belfry.

Nearby, is the Han Chin Pet Soo building which was founded as a miner’s club by Yau Tet Shin and Leong Fee dating back from 1929. It was the only club exempt from registration under the “Exemptions Under The Registration of Societies Order,” dating back to 1895.

THE CONCUBINE LANE

Not to be missed, is the Concubine Lane where history had it that it was formed after a blaze that destroyed Ipoh Old Town in 1892, its lanes of the shops were rebuilt. Three of these lanes became gifts from a mining tycoon Yao Tet Shin to his three lovely wives. The wife lane is located at Lorong Hale followed with the Concubine Lane (Panglima Lane) and Second Concubine (Market Lane).

The area comprises of town houses were once reowned for opium, gambling and brothels, up until the end of World War II where it became home to many rich Chinese miners’ concubines.

Today, these lanes are converted into a commercialised area meant for shopping, and filming of movies taking place, here.

At the Concubine Lane, we find ourselves busy shopping for Ipoh’s popular Kampar chicken biscuit, Ipoh white coffee, Gaharu tea and souvenirs.

HISTORY

To begin with, Ipoh started from a humble beginning was developed from the Malay village of Palau found along the banks of the Kinta River. The tin rush of the 1880’s caused huge migration of people into this small town with an initial population of 4,000 people and 340 houses. On 1 June, 1892, a fire broke out and destroyed part of the town which then gave town planners the opportunity to rebuilt the streets in orderly grid pattern. The Chinese miners started to boom, thus further transforming Ipoh into a business and social centre. The town that tin built finally became known as the “City of Millionaires” throughout 1920’s and 1930’s. Eventually, Ipoh gained its Municipal status on 31 May 1962 and was granted City status on 27 May 1988.

AS IT IS TODAY

Ipoh was recently been selected as one of the Top 10 Best Asian Destinations 2016, by the Lonely Planet.

It ranks sixth spot for the Hottest Asian Destination to Visit in 2016, and it is the only city in Malaysia to get listed in the Lonely Planet.

The State Government’s continuous effort to restore, maintained and kept its heritage buildings intact is part of beautifying the city, and has ironically gained fame for Ipoh.

The government, also create awareness among owners of heritage buildings to be responsible to upkeep their own building in line with the state’s motto of ‘let our old buildings speaks volume’, in Ipoh.

Before I say goodbye to my friend at the railway station, she thanked me for accompanying her to view the ‘many’ old buildings which she admits them as ‘one of its kind’ in the country.

FAST FACTS

Tourists are advised to get the Old Town Heritage map which is available at the Tourism Malaysia Perak, Jalan Medan Istana 3, Bandar Ipoh Raya, 30000, Ipoh (05- 2559962)